Chapter 93 Outdoor Clothing for the Wilderness Professional
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There are several factors to keep in mind when choosing the appropriate clothing. These include the weather, influenced by geographic location and season; and the specifics of the activity, such as aerobic or high-exertion sports compared with sedentary tasks. One must also consider the length of the outing. For example, an activity in a remote locale lasting a long time will require different clothing than a short outing close to an urban environment. In the wilderness setting, the clothing one wears is not just for personal adornment or comfort—it may be a lifesaving feature (Box 93-1).
BOX 93-1 Considerations for Clothing Choice
These considerations apply to any length excursion, from day trip to multiweek expedition.
This chapter discusses the various fabrics and fibers used in outdoor clothing and illustrates an adaptive strategy for picking the appropriate garment type and accessories for use in various environments (Figure 93-1).
FIGURE 93-1 Alaska hiking in Arc’teryx clothing and packs.
(Copyright 2008 Arc’teryx. Courtesy Brian Goldstone. http://www.arcteryx.com.)
Fabrics and Fibers
Natural Fibers
Wool and merino wool are excellent insulating fabrics (Figure 93-2, online). The core of the wool fiber absorbs moisture and redistributes it to the fabric surface, where evaporation occurs. This moderate affinity for absorbing moisture is countered by excellent regain—the fabric retains warmth and does not feel cool or wet when damp. Wool feels wet when saturated. Traditional wool can be highly irritating to the skin. Wool fibers have barbs in the epicuticle, or outer layer of the fiber. Merino wool is a finer fiber with fewer barbs in the epicuticle. Ultrafine merino wool fibers are 17.5 µm in diameter, allowing for lightweight fabrics and exceptionally tight weaves. (For comparison, a human hair is 60 µm in diameter.) Merino wool is machine washable with minimal shrinkage and is highly elastic. It retains its shape well with repeated wearing and washing. The antibacterial properties of wool contribute to decreased body odor retention—a very desirable quality when faced with multiple days of wear. The bacteria that metabolize sweat do not flourish; therefore less odor-producing metabolites are present.
Wool, including merino wool, is spun from the fleece of sheep. Alpaca and llamas are camelids, originally from South America (Figure 93-3). Cashmere is spun from the undercoats of cashmere goats. Although technically not wool, these wool-like fibers share similar properties with Merino wool.
Down
Down is the fluffy undercoating that keeps geese, ducks, and other waterfowl warm (Figure 93-4). It consists of clusters of filaments growing from a central quill point. Land fowl do not produce down. Goose down is superior to duck down in its loft and therefore ability to insulate. Down is an excellent insulator when dry. Unfortunately, the low moisture regain and hydrophilic nature of down make it almost useless when wet. The insulative value of down is measured in fill power. Each company uses a slightly different measurement, making across-the-board comparisons difficult. Generally, the higher the fill power, the greater the insulative value. Fill power is the volume that a specific weight of down occupies. In other words, the number of cubic inches displaced by a given ounce of down (in3/oz) is the fill power.
FIGURE 93-4 Down puff.
(Copyright 2010 Gary Peterson, Western Mountaineering. http://www.westernmountaineering.com.)
Synthetic Fibers
Blends
Manufacturers blend fiber types to use the benefits of each fabric. For example, spandex may be blended with the primary fiber, such as wool or cotton, to improve stretch and retention of shape. Wool may be blended with polyester to improve durability and fit (Tables 93-1 and 93-2).
Down | Synthetic | |
---|---|---|
Compressibility | Excellent | Good |
Insulative quality when wet | Poor | Good |
Weight | Lighter per volume | Heavier than down |
Durability | Will last longer if cared for properly | Will eventually break down even with ideal care |
Care | Requires careful laundering | No special product required |
Warmth | Greater warmth-to-weight ratio | |
Allergenic properties | Possible | None |
Expense | High | Moderate |
Drying time | Slow | Fast |
Waterproof/Breathable Fabrics
Laminates
Laminate fabrics are designed by bonding a waterproof/breathable membrane to the underside of the garment’s exterior. They are commonly bound to nylon. If there are only two layers, the fabric is designated “two-ply.” The laminate may be sandwiched between two layers, thus creating a three-ply material, which is more durable but heavier than two ply. W. L. Gore and Associates produced the first waterproof/breathable membrane—Gore-Tex. This trade name is commonly, and incorrectly, used to refer to the entire category of laminate clothing (Figure 93-5). Although many manufacturers and laminate types now exist, the basis of laminate technology is the membrane. The membrane is formed of stretched or expanded polytetrafluoroethylene (ePTFE). The process of expanding the PTFE introduces microtears or holes in the laminate. These openings are small enough to allow water vapor of perspiration to escape (breathability), while not allowing water droplets to enter from the environment (water resistance). The pores of the ePTFE are 20,000 times smaller than the smallest raindrop, yet large enough to allow water vapor to pass to the outside. Water can only penetrate ePTFE if it is applied with a great deal of force or if the surface of the ePTFE is contaminated or soiled, leading to leakage. Two of the predominant manufacturers, Gore and eVent, use different methods to address soilage. Gore applies a microthin layer of polyurethane to the laminate. It is designed to be porous and not affect breathability of the fabric. eVent uses a proprietary method employing integration of a substance into the laminate itself. By preventing soilage, the waterproof and breathable properties of the fabric are sustained.
Soft-Shell Fabrics
Soft-shell fabrics are the most newly developed fabrics in the outdoor clothing industry. This fabric type excels in breathability and flexibility yet still demonstrates moderate water resistance. Soft-shell fabrics have a tightly woven outer layer and an inner lining of varying insulative quality and may additionally employ a windproof or highly water-resistant laminate (Figure 93-6, online). They combine the properties of both an insulating middle layer with a protective outer layer. Soft-shell garments are highly effective for both temperature and moisture management in environments where rain is unlikely. They are moderately water resistant due to the tightly woven exterior surface and DWR finish. These garments excel when used during highly aerobic activities and in conditions where rain is not a concern. Soft-shell garments may function as both an insulating (middle) and outer (protective) layer.
Durable Water-Repellent Finish
A DWR finish is applied to all waterproof/breathable fabrics after the garment is completed. It does not change breathability of the fabric but enhances water resistance by causing water to bead up and roll off the garment’s exterior. The finish bonds to the fibers and does not fill the interstitial spaces of the fabric. An ideal DWR finish forms a dense chemical buffer on the outer surface of the garment. Microscopically, the finish forms an upright, spiky, and brush-like texture. Water thereby has a high contact angle with the finish, forming a spherical droplet. Were the contact angle to be low, water droplets would flatten into a more dome-like shape. This would allow the water to cling to the surface of the fabric and eventually seep in (Figure 93-7).
Layering
Dressing in layers enhances one’s ability to adapt to a changing environment. Each layer should maximize the properties of the fabric from which it is made. Layering allows for addition and subtraction of clothing as needed, adjusting for changes in body temperature and metabolic output, resulting in more efficient maximization of metabolic heat and enhancement of energy conservation. Adjustment of layers in response to changes in the environmental or travel conditions can prevent sweating and overheating, while preventing loss of heat that might lead to undesired cooling. In anticipation of increased body heat and sweating when traveling uphill, layers can be preemptively removed and zippers unzipped to enhance ventilation. Clothing that becomes saturated in sweat is not only uncomfortable, but loses its insulative properties as the fibers become soaked with moisture. This is clearly important in a cold environment, where loss of insulation or long drying times may lead to hypothermia. Removing layers in response to increased work also serves to conserve energy and moisture. In contrast to removing layers to prevent sweating, adding clothing layers as the workload decreases or the environment cools allows heat to be trapped in the insulative layers. The simple actions of managing a personal layering system conserve valuable energy for outdoor endeavors (Figure 93-8, online).
FIGURE 93-8 Sarah Hueniken keeping warm layered up in Outdoor Research clothing between climbs.
(Copyright 2009, Ryan Creary, Outdoor Research Marketing. http://www.outdoorresearch.com.)
An efficient layering system allows rapid response to changing environmental conditions. It is easier to replace a single garment that has become soiled or saturated than to replace an entire suit of clothing. Through layering, it becomes possible to not only pack fewer garments, but still be more comfortable across a wider range of environmental conditions and activity levels. When packing for any wilderness excursion, the unexpected needs to be considered, such as precipitation in the form of rain or snow, a sudden change in temperature, or the unexpected night out. When dressing in layers, fit is very important. The base layer should be snug but not confining. The middle layer should fit over the base layer comfortably. The outer layer needs to be large enough to fit over both base and middle layers without compressing. Compressing the middle layer reduces its insulative properties. Harness or pack straps should not rub or chafe on any seam or fold of fabric. Testing the fit, comfort, and effectiveness of the layering system before venturing into the wilderness will help prevent not only the discomfort of poor-fitting layers, but ensure that the purpose of the layering system is fulfilled—keeping one warm and conserving energy (Box 93-2).
BOX 93-2 Insulating Value of Clothing
Approximate clo Range | Garment Example | |
---|---|---|
Base | 0.15-0.3 | Silk weight, cotton T-shirt |
Lightweight | 0.30-0.50 | Polartec 100, Patagonia R1 |
Midweight | 0.75-0.85 | Polartec 200, MontBell Thermawrap parka |
Heavyweight | 0.90-0.11 | Polartec 300, Patagonia Polarguard Delta pullover |
Expedition | 1.40 and greater | Patagonia down pullover and most high-loft insulation |